Waiting for Godello (No longer!)
New frontiers of Spanish wine highlighted in recent Guild of Sommeliers’ Masterclass
By Shankar Chaudhuri
Sponsored by Guild of Sommeliers and led by Master Sommelier Devon Broglie, a Masterclass tasted a selection of varied vintages from both Spain's leading and lesser known wine regions on May 27 in New York City. Through four flights the tasting offered an in-depth insight into some of the greatest expressions of both Spanish whites and reds both from indigenous varietals such as Albarino, Mencia, Bobal, Verdejo, Tempranillo, Monastrell, as well as from international varietals such as Cabernet, Syrah, Petit Verdot and Merlot.
The class began with a tasting of Leirana’s 2013 Albarino 2013 from the Riax Baixa’s region in northwest Spain, composed of a single varietal and aged for 12 months. Typical of Albarino, Leirana tasted light and crisp with some floral notes, supplemented by a hint of fruits, herbs and minerals. But a bigger surprise was the A Coroa 200 Cestos Godello (2013) from Valdeorras, situated just north of Portugal. Made of 100% Godello and aged less than 6 months in stainless steel, it showed more richness and character than Leirana. Cestos Godello also showed more intensity, life and a longer finish. Cestos made me feel like Godello’s day has definitely arrived and I seemed to understand why Gerry Dawes, a specialist of Spanish wines, called it “Spain’s emerging hope as an equivalent to the great white Burgundies.”
The class tried two Mencia-based products from one of Northern Spain’s most innovative winemakers, Raul Perez: his Mencia El Pecado (2013) from Ribera Sacra andhis Vico Luerco Mencia (2012) from Bierzo While the El Pecado felt juicy, fresh and intensely young, the 100% Mencia based Vico Luerco had the hallmarks of Bierzo’s best: balanced, refined and nuanced with fruitiness nicely counterbalanced by oak and mineral elements. The class was fairly unanimous that it should drink well through the next 10 years. Vico Luerco should be able to stand on its own against even some of the very good reds from anywhere, if my experience and that of others in the class were any indication.
Another great example of a native white varietal standing on its own right was Verdejo from Rueda. Belondrade y Lurton (2013) made exclusively with Verdejo and aged 10 months in French oak showed the distinct ability to produce a balanced and harmonious wine. With brilliant yellow color, it was rich, flavorful, and it smelled of ripe citrus and was reminiscent of the best of sauvignon blanc characteristics; some of this could well be due to the wide swings in temperature in the region, which can vary by as much as by 50 degrees between winter and summer months, providing a nice balance between content and acidity for the grapes. Belondrade seemed to be a trailblazer in showcasing the potential of Verdejo. Given Verdejo’s versatility, I felt that we haven’t heard or seen the last word on this varietal yet.
Perhaps the biggest surprise of the session was the tasting of the Monastrell-based vintages. If Enrique Mendoza Estrecho Monastrell (2011) from the Alicante fit the bill of a classic Monastrell with high alcohol and tannin content, it was a pleasant surprise to taste Elo Monastrell (2010) from Yecla. Grown in the chalky soil and aged in 500l French Oak, it was the very antithesis of our traditional notion of a Monastrell (which in France is called Mourvedre and is the basis for the fine reds of Bandol). Elo had a relatively low alcohol content (13%) and balanced acidity, and had the right clarity and brightness – elements that separated it from the usual dense renditions of Monastrell. Given its ethereal elegance, this should be a sought-after wine. Elo Monastrell is illustrative of how the same single varietal in adjacent areas can offer two very different dimensions.
The class also sampled vintages from two of Spain’s DO Pago designations, one each from Valencia and La Mancha. DO Pago is a designation that began in 2003 for modest wineries that produce some of the best experimental wine, much like producers of Super Tuscans in Italy. There are currently 15 designated Vino de Pagos in Spain. The wine from a DO Pago must be wholly created and bottled within that domain. DO Pago certified Finca Terrerazo (2010) made of 100% native varietal Bobal and aged for 18 months in new French oak was an emphatic confirmation of why the Bobal grape from Valencia has assumed a renewed appreciation among many wine lovers. While intensely fruity, it also exuded sheer class with soft tannins, a balanced structure and a long finish. A slight trace of oak was perfectly integrated and complemented by a hint of soft spices. La Mancha’s Marques de Griñon, the producer of 2007 Emeritus Red (Dominio de Valdepusa), was the joint-first estate to receive Spain’s DO Pago status, and it seemed it was quite well-deserved. A rich blend of Cabernet, Petit Verdot and Syrah aged for 24 months in French oak, it was full bodied with a deep finish. Valdepusa is a beacon of fine wine in the ocean of of mass-produced wines in La Mancha.
While the focus of the class was on areas outside the mainstream, it didn’t completely ignore products from the tried and tested traditional regions. Valenciso Reserva (2008) from Rioja, aged 16 months in French barrique, had some of the best elements of a full-bodied Rioja: lush, full and round, with sophisticated glossy tannins and good acidity and spicy flavors. Dense and powerful, masculine, Alenza Gran Reserva (2003) from Ribera del Duoro, was also a solid representative of Ribera. Likewise, as with most wines from the Priorato region in northeast Spain, the Mas d'en Gil produced Coma Vella (2008) fully displayed characteristics of a medium bodied wine with intensity. My only reservation about Coma Vella was that its high (15%) alcohol content which may impede its subtlety as it ages over the years.
Among the Cava’s tried in the session were: Do Casa (1986), Augusti Torello Mata Kripta (2007) and Gran Codorniu Pinot Noir (2009). According to Devon Broglie, these products are great bargain in terms of value for the money compared to their French counterparts in Champagne, whose prices on average are twice as much. Osborne Sibarita 1792 VORS Sherry from Jerez was the final wine of the tasting. A blend of fine, hand-harvested Palomino grapes with just a touch (2%) of Pedro Ximenez, and aged 30 years, Sibarita proved why good sherry should be both enjoyed and prized.
The Masterclass offered a grand view of the new directions that Spanish wine makers are taking. It should help sommeliers and oenophiles to look beyond the established wine makers and discover great finds that are waiting to be tried and relished.